Security in Medellín

Photo #1: Medellín at night.

Photo #2: A homemade bomb going off in the distance.

Photo #3: From the subway station at the University of Antioquia.


I'm glad to have received a positive response so far...great! Well, for the first time since I arrived, I am sick to my stomach from some food I ate out...not too bad though. But it's typical. I have just received my first English students: two sweet little girls that speak quite well and are part of Carlos' massive family. Though it's not the dream job (NGO work), I like them and the pay is good and I have to do something until my Spanish improves (which it has been sslloowwllyy...).

I wanted to write about the security situation here. At any semi-important building or even shops or whole streets, there are private security guards at work. They regulate who comes in and out, etc. There are tons of police...it seems like on every corner. They stop traffic randomly to check what people are up to, etc. Sometimes, you can see groups of soldiers from the military (and I mean groups...10-20 soldiers) guarding areas, or buildings, and especially at night. For example, around their own military buildings, they shut down roads that are close by at night. They can be at events or just where the clubs are as well. Clearly they have weapons on their bodies. It's a bit freakish for me at times, but as of yet I still feel quite safe and have not seen anything too scary. At Carlos' university where he works, I have to register at the gate (everyone gets checked and searched) as a visitor and I also have to register my laptop (they usually check it when I leave). But once I'm in, they even check people at the library, which I don't like because every time I go in or out, I have to explain that I'm a visitor and explain what I am doing there. However, they do get quite lax at times and it makes me wonder what they're actually doing there.

Last Thursday, there was a conference at Carlos' university (University of Antioquia) about the American military bases that have been so controversial. Well it's more like the US wants to make use of Colombian military bases to help the country continue the fight on narcotics and "guerrillas". Plenty of people don't want American influence here, both locally and regionally (as I'm sure you can imagine). So after the conference, some students were protesting and started setting off homemade bombs on campus and in surrounding areas. At that point we left because it was getting loud and I am American and all (though I tell most people I'm Swedish to keep a low profile ;) ). The police started closing streets around the university. Come to find out later, they were keeping these bombs in one of the bathrooms at the university and while they were getting more out, one student got his arm blown off! I guess a few years ago, students were protesting and 2 or 3 were killed due to a similar type of accident. But the kicker is, the students involved are now getting charged for committing terrorist acts. Again, anything you say against the government here and you're immediately labeled as a "guerrilla" or "terrorist". Fuck that. There is tons of graffiti in the street against the "imperialist Americans". I've seen mostly ones that say: "No bases gringas" or "no bases imperialistas"...I personally think it's a bad idea as well. It just makes Colombia a bigger target for disgruntled neighbors. ;)

Carlos' nephew is in the military, doing his mandatory service and we are going to see him at his base on Saturday. ;) Should be interesting. Peace!

First weeks in Medellín, Colombia

¡Saludos de Colombia!
Welcome to my blog about living in Medellín, Colombia for this next year. I wanted to write one for Sweden and never did...which is quite unfortunate, so I figured starting fresh in Colombia warrants a blog.

I have been here since August 17, 2009. Things are going really well. Carlos and I received a huge welcome from his closest family members at the airport (like 10 people)...great people. He has an amazingly nice and open family that has taken me in as one of their own in no time at all. I like that a lot and it thankfully does not resemble my experience in Sweden even remotely. I haven't gotten sick being here either, which says a lot for me who gets sick going to any new country, even European ones...considering my superstitiousness, I take it as an excellent sign. Carlos' grandmother in the photo is 97 years old and birthed 20 children in her lifetime. She is a rockstar!!!

Medellín is a city of 2.5 million people that sits in a huge valley surrounded by incredibly green mountains. Many neighborhoods sit on the hills, and usually the farther away from the center you are, the poorer you are. When we were driving into the city the first night, it reminded me very much of La Paz, Bolivia (driving down into the city from El Alto). Many buildings are made from red brick and at night, the city twinkles from every hilltop. During the day, all the beautiful tropical plants, flowers and trees stand out intensely to a foreigner like me. Some of the houses are very traditional looking--very decorative. It's a beautiful city full of life. People live outside on the street: socializing, walking, etc...and it's extremely loud from the hustle and bustle. The buses are crazy and decorated with lights, fanfare and whatever else people find as lucky or fun. People are very polite and friendly and there certainly is a huge mix here! People of every color. But I do still stand out as a foreigner...also because there seem to be very few foreigners here. I think I have noticed/talked to 4 other foreigners in 4 weeks. We are very careful and I don't go out alone, yet. Not until I really get a hang of the language and how the city works, which is going ok. The center is quite wild...and Carlos always tells me to walk extremely fast. There is so much going on in the streets...it's incredible.

Yes, there is some urban warfare going on here thanks to the drug war...but it's not something you see on the street everyday. It's a regular city with tons of people living their everyday normal lives. But there is a war going on and it can be heard about through the grape vine, the media or heard off in the distance (so far, we've heard some gunshots in the distance late at night..but we are on hills and there is an echo). It seems to take place more in the poorer neighborhoods and lots of the gangs are fighting against each other for control after many leaders were arrested and extradited to the US a little while back. It seems like many very young people are involved...teenagers that is. Sorry but children with guns scares the shit out of me and to me, as well as children with babies. One day I saw a couple of girls, they were young teenagers (maybe 15-16???) with children (that were theirs) of 2-3 years old! That's hardcore. Also, there are tons of homeless people living on the streets and many of them are on hardcore drugs. Seems like they sniff glue or gasoline and also smoke something called "basuco"--the waste product of cocaine production. I've never seen people so f***ed up on drugs before in my life. Never. It's quite sad. They do it so openly right in the street too...for everyone to see. So, reality check, cocaine production in Colombia is clearly not only a problem of international smuggling and supply nor one of violence in Colombia but also one of domestic consumption. More about that later...besides that though I would say one of the biggest problems of this city is the air pollution. I have never seen such bad air pollution...and sometimes you literally choke on it, especially if you're in the center, which is also the bottom of the valley. It seems like if someone speaks out against the government here concerning social problems, you are quickly labeled a guerrilla or accused of being on the left. G** forbid. ;)

Anyways, I hope you guys will enjoy and learn from this. I will write more soon because lots to tell. Peace until then!